Dual-purpose chickenEine Gebrauchskreuzung bezeichnet in der Tierzucht die gezielte Kreuzung von Tieren zweier verschiedener Rassen oder Zuchtlinien, um die positiven Eigenschaften beider Elternteile in den Nachkommen zu vereinen. Das Ziel ist meist die Verbesserung von Merkmalen wie Gesundheit, Leistungsfähigkeit oder Anpassungsfähigkeit. Mehr have received special attention since the ban on chick culling in Germany in January 2022. Both the eggs and the meat can be used. Dual-purpose chickens are an ethical alternative, but what about the flavour? As part of a research project at the University of Hohenheim in Stuttgart under the direction of the Naturland Association Baden-Württemberg, students at the Baden-Württemberg Cooperative State University (DHBW) in Heilbronn were asked to assess the sensory properties of organically produced meat and eggs. In the summer of 2023, they analysed, tasted and systematically evaluated the appearance, taste and smell of several lines of dual-purpose chickens. Even though the testers found differences between the various lines as well as between the individual parts - breast, drumstick, wings or broth - their overall verdict was ‘dual-purpose chickens taste better!’.
The appetite for poultry meat is huge: according to the Federal Ministry of Food and Agriculture (BMEL), 11.4 kilograms of poultry meat were consumed per capita in Germany in 2022. Eggs are also very popular: per capita consumption, including processed products such as baked goods, pasta and ready meals, was 230 eggs in 2022.
‘In the past, the classic farm chicken provided both eggs and meat, but the high demand has led to a separation of the different breeding lines,’ explains Prof Dr Lukas Kiefer from Naturland-Verband Baden-Württemberg e.V. ’While the laying lines were bred to lay many and large eggs, the chickens of the fattening lines should produce a lot of meat as quickly as possible.’
The result: for a long time, male chicks from laying hens were killed on their first day of life - they don't lay any eggs and produce too little and unsatisfactory meat for fattening. Although there has been a ban on killing newly hatched chicks in Germany since 1 January 2022, there are many loopholes, as Prof. Dr Kiefer knows: ‘We keep receiving reports that breeding is being relocated to other European countries where chicks can still be killed.
Alternative to chick culling
The BMEL proposes three alternatives for implementing the ban. For example, male chicks can be reared in the laying lines and marketed as so-called ‘brother chickens’. However, due to the lower meat quality and higher costs, this puts farms at a competitive disadvantage. Alternatively, so-called in-ovo sexing, i.e. sexing while still in the egg, can prevent male chicks from being hatched at all - an approach that currently predominates in the conventional poultry industry and is also considered a sensible option by some organic egg producers.
Doch vor allem von Öko-Verbänden wird die Geschlechtsbestimmung im Brutei aus ethischen Gründen abgelehnt. Sie setzen verstärkt auf die dritte Option: sogenannte Zweinutzungshühner. Gemeint ist damit der Einsatz der Hennen zum Eierlegen und der Hähne zur Fleischerzeugung. Doch „Zweinutzungshühner haben einen Nachteil: Sie können zwar sowohl Eier als auch Fleisch liefern, bleiben in ihrer Leistung aber rund 20 Prozent unter den etablierten Lege- und Mastlinien“, sagt Prof. Dr. Kiefer. „Das schlägt sich natürlich auch im Preis nieder.“
No market for dual-purpose chickens in Baden-Württemberg by now
Currently, only a few pioneering farms in Baden-Württemberg keep and sell such animals. ‘There is currently no market for dual-purpose chickens in Baden-Württemberg,’ explains Dr Beate Gebhardt from the BEST working group at the University of Hohenheim. The ‘Zweiwert’ project aims to remedy this situation. Together with other partners, the Naturland Association and the University of Hohenheim want to create a regional network in order to optimise the value chain for ’dual-purpose chickenEine Gebrauchskreuzung bezeichnet in der Tierzucht die gezielte Kreuzung von Tieren zweier verschiedener Rassen oder Zuchtlinien, um die positiven Eigenschaften beider Elternteile in den Nachkommen zu vereinen. Das Ziel ist meist die Verbesserung von Merkmalen wie Gesundheit, Leistungsfähigkeit oder Anpassungsfähigkeit. Mehr‘ in Baden-Württemberg.
This is because the existing production and supply structures are often still inadequate. Prof Dr Kiefer explains that marketing often fails due to very trivial things: ‘For example, dual-purpose chickens often cannot be processed in conventional slaughterhouses because the slaughter lines are not designed for their size.’
‘But the majority of consumers don't know much about the term ‘dual-purpose chicken’ either,’ explains Dr Gebhardt. This means that the marketing of dual-purpose chickens faces major challenges: ‘As the products are still little known, effective communication on values such as sustainability and animal welfare is important.’
Making product quality tangible
Criticism of current poultry farming and increasing demands led to consumers placing more and more value on the organic quality and regional origin of products. Certain groups of buyers were also prepared to pay more for eggs and meat from dual-purpose chickens.
‘However, that alone will not be enough. It is also important to convince consumers of the quality of the products,’ continues Dr Gebhardt. ‘Studies show that enjoyment and flavour are often the top priorities when buying food. A price that is perceived as reasonable is then often the final deciding factor.’
A decisive approach is therefore to make the product tangible for consumers. Those who know the background and have had the opportunity to convince themselves of the quality will buy more consciously and also accept higher prices, according to the expectations of those involved in the project.
Aromatic flavour - even without salt and other spices
In the summer of 2023, students specialising in Food Management at Baden-Württemberg Cooperative State University (DHBW) were tasked with developing innovative marketing strategies for dual-purpose chickens. As part of a practical project, they were asked to blind taste and evaluate both meat and eggs from dual-purpose chickens.
Four lines of dual-purpose chickens from organic production and chickens and eggs from the supermarket were compared in the test. Using a multi-part questionnaire, the students assessed the sensory characteristics such as appearance, flavour and smell of the breast, wings and drumstick as well as the broth and eggs.
Even though this was only an initial test in which only a few people took part, the general verdict can be summarised briefly: ‘Dual-purpose chickens taste better!’ Although cooked without salt or other seasoning ingredients, their flavour was particularly impressive. If these results are confirmed in further tests, dual-purpose chickens could become more widely accepted by consumers and contribute to their wider distribution.
BACKGROUND: PROJECT "ZWEIWERT"
As part of the European Innovation Partnerships (EIP), the European Union (EU) and the Ministry of Food, Rural Areas and Consumer Protection Baden-Württemberg (MLR) are funding the project ‘Development of value chains for dual-purpose chickens in Baden-Württemberg’ (ZweiWert) from 01/2022 to 12/2024. Under the leadership of the Naturland Association Baden-Württemberg e. V., several departments of the University of Hohenheim and other partners from agricultural production and marketing are working on the development of a value chain for dual-purpose chickens in Baden-Württemberg. They want to support all stages from breeding to marketing through dialogue in order to create a range of dual-purpose chickens from farm breeding and husbandry with subsequent regional processing and marketing.
Further info: zwei-wert.de
Research report: opus.uni-hohenheim.de/volltexte/2023/2230
BACKGROUND: AK BEST AT THE DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURAL MARKETS
The Business Excellence and Sustainability Transformation (AK BEST) working group at the Department of Agricultural Markets at the University of Hohenheim focusses on the excellence of companies and the appropriate evaluation and communication tools that can contribute to sustainable development. In addition, communication and labelling for high-quality food, special features and sustainability of agricultural and food markets as well as expectations and behaviours of stakeholders in the food sector are analysed. In order to give stakeholders orientation or outstanding approaches more visibility, possibilities are explored and new approaches developed in dialogue and ongoing exchange between science and practice.
BACKGROUND: Use of animals at the University of Hohenheim
For the tasting study, eggs and slaughtered animals from the various lines were purchased from the producers. Legally, this does not constitute animal testing.
The University of Hohenheim is the first signatory to the nationwide Transparent Animal Testing Initiative launched in 2021. Gaining knowledge and imparting knowledge for the benefit of all living beings and for the protection of our planet will not be possible in the foreseeable future without research and teaching involving animals. Society, legislators and the University of Hohenheim itself apply very strict standards to the way these are carried out: back in 2017, the University adopted a guideline in which it continues to recognise the necessity of animal experiments, but also commits to reducing and mitigating them and providing transparent information about them.
The official laboratory animal report provides information on the scope of animal experiments at the University of Hohenheim. Every year, the University reports every laboratory animal on which an animal experiment has been completed.
Further info: uni-hohenheim.de/tierversuche
Press release University of Hohenheim (11.12.2023)
Text: Stuhlemmer
